All you should need is a motor with the Intake and exhaust manifold and downpipe , PCM, and then the instrument cluster. And as far as which motor to go with. Stay away from since they have the bastard crank, as well as since they have the vertical manifold, and some other fun stuff that would require a bit more modification.
Look for a lower mileage motor that doesnt burn oil and you should be good. They all made hp so theres no point in choosing a specific year unless you plan to put all of the best parts together in one motor. If thats the case, google "Deeb's Build" on saturnfans.
PatrickShorten30 answered 6 years ago. What about 99Saturn sl1. To dohc what all would I need to do the swap been looking for some clear answersbut havet found it yet. Justin answered 4 years ago. Im wanting ro do the same thing but with a turbo on it. If you have had work done on the car by a professional mechanic they probably put this on with a air tools. My right side was much tighter than the left side Use a long breaker bar to get the leverage needed. Wedge a pry bar between the wheel lugs and the floor to stop the wheel from moving.
There is an excellent picture in your Haynes manual that shows this. Remove the ball joint cotter pin and throw it away. Loosen the castle nut as much as you can, you will need the 18mm box wrench. It is unlikely the nut will come off all the way as the axle will be in the way. Wedge a large pry bar the larger the better between the vehicle frame and the front sway bar and pull down, hard. At the same time smack the ball joint with a hammer.
Eventually the ball joint will pop out of the knuckle. When it does remove the castle nut and separate the ball joint from the knuckle. DO NOT use a pickle fork or ball joint separator, as you will damage the rubber seal. If you tear the seal you will need to replace the whole piece. Remove the plastic mud shields from inside the wheel well.
Twist the knuckle, with the brakes attached, out of the way so that you can pull the axle free. To get the axle separated will take a bit of twisting and turning. Use a pry bar on the left side axle at the point where it enters the transmission. Take care not to damage the seals.
Pry between the case and the inner constant velocity joint. Pull the axle out the transmission and remove from the car. Again refer to your manual for some excellent photos.
The passenger side is similar except that there are three bolts that hold the intermediate shaft bracket to the engine along with one bolt that holds the intake manifold support. Remove these four bolts and you should be able to remove the intermediate shaft along with the axle.
Some people say that you need to separate the axle and intermediate shafts but I did not find this necessary. Once that is done usually by simply slightly twisting the entire transaxle forward and back while gently but firmly pushing it toward the engine it will sit right there tight against the engine and let you put the bolts in.
Reinstalling the intermediate shaft into the bolted up transaxle takes all of about 5 extra minutes, add another 10 and you'll have the right axle back on as well Remove the transmission to frame mount. This mount is a rubber block located on the far end of the transmission housing on the drivers side. There are two bolts that hold the mount to the transmission and one nut accessed from underneath that secures the mount to the frame.
At the area where the engine bolts to transmission, remove the two bolts holding the support bracket to the transmission. Remove the three bolts holding the tin shield inspection cover to the transmission. Remove the two lower engine to transmission bolts. These two can be hard to locate, there is one near the front and one near the back of the engine and they face different directions. They are large 15mm?
Now the only thing holding the trans in should be gravity and two locating dowels. This takes turning and tweaking the transmission from below usually the best way. Once the trans is in the opening it will rest there very nicely if you have it jammed in well enough giving you just enough room to get to the clutch and remove that. Note: In this photo the shift tower is still attached. Also note that the strut and brake assembly have been removed.
This is the same step but with the strut and brake hardware still attached. The clutch is secured by six small bolts around the outer edge. Remove those and the clutch and clutch plate should just fall out. Sorry for double posting, but i already edited my original post and ive been calling everyone i know and got some advice and When it gets stuck in reverse, the shifter will be loose like it was, but after i play around with it in the reverse area it will pick up and be able to shift again.
The car will shift properly, but the same problem remains. Thanks in advance! Broken shifter bushing most likely. You need to remove the center console up over the shifterand boot. The shifter and boot are part of an assembly and do NOT separate. From here you can see the cables attached to the shifter and determine if the bushing is bad.
New bushings can be found on ebay for 5 bucks or so. Also ive read that toyota wiper bushings work also that are found at autozone. Also, make sure the shifter cables are properly attached to the tranny itself. Top priority. Valve Cover Gasket I think I'm leaking as well as burning haha - afraid of fouling plugs.
High Priority. Also, hear a squeaking sound when stopping. Stop pretty well if I push the pedal down, though it never reaches the floor I'm reading a cylinder misfire and EGR Vaccum issue need to find the code reader and reread it. Top engine mount Windows especially front driver side don't like to go down all the way. May be off track or need something replaced. Low Priority - Struts - definitely a little stiff and some leaning at high speed turns.
Fuel Filter - no idea when it was changed and based on my experience with this car it might not have been. Any way to test? Sorry for the long winded message. What do you guys think? Should I turn around and run screaming for the hills?
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